🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. However, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the family completely shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.