Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these stories and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
